Because we refer to them as fragrance strengths and perfume is the most concentrated, many people mistakenly think of perfume as the strongest – however I find that the only people who think this are those who have never really worn them. It is also perceived as expensive as the bottle looks so small in comparison with the price ticket: it must be remembered that 80% of an eau de toilette will not last for more than 4-5 hours on the skin, so the money spent on an eau de toilette perfumes the atmosphere more than the wearer.
PERFUME Perfume, or extract, is the finest example of a creation, many great fragrances were only made as perfume, and an assistant perfumer would create the eau de toilette, sometimes many years later. They are the softest of all the strengths as they have comparatively very few materials in them which are volatile, which is why they stay on the skin for such a long time, making them soft, long-lasting, and very refined. Approximately 50% of the formula will stay on the skin for some 24 hours. The excellent staying power of perfume can be attributed to the high percentage of oils used; which will fall some-where between 20-40%. Due the enormous concentration of oils they need to be put in exceptionally pure alcohol which is generally around 96° - this quality is essential to cut into the often viscous oils, allowing them to diffuse. This illustration explains the structure of a fragrance and why it is so long-lasting.
Eau de Parfum The Eau de Parfum generally contains between 7-14% ‘jus’ in 90° alcohol. It gives quite a good impression of the fragrant impression, but will lack the softness and lasting quality of the perfume as they are far more refreshing due to the increase in top and head notes. Approximately 30% of the composition is made from base and deep base notes and so it has quite good lasting qualities; that said if applied at 8.00am, before going to work, some 70% will have disappeared by noon. It is a perfect companion for the perfume when sprayed liberally over the body as the base gives a good background to support a small quantity of perfume. It is the ideal combination for the woman who loves to notice the scent she is wearing.
Eau de Toilette Eau de Toilette takes its name from a very complex and expensive product created by perfumers centuries ago which was made from fabric, hence ‘toile’ which is French for fabric. This toile was impregnated with perfume over many months and made into a sponge-shaped object which was used dry to ‘cleanse’, refresh, and scent the body. With the development of the guild of gantier-parfumeur and the increased use of scent the formulae were then added to alcohol and used for the same purpose. So I have always believed the best way to translate the sentiment of Eau de Toilette is ‘refreshing water’, as everything about our toilette is about refreshing ourselves. An eau de toilette is not about perfuming ourselves, which is why so many people complain that their fragrances do not last as they use eau de toilette rather than perfume. This is easily understood when you discover that they only contain between 3-8% ‘jus’ and that 80% will disappear within approximately four hours. They should be used in the same way as eau de parfum and are perfect for someone who likes a very discreet effect, but if they want it to be discreet and lasting it must be used with ultra-soft perfume. I have always said my title is ‘parfumeur’ and not ‘eau de toilette-ter’!
Eau de Cologne There are two distinct types of Eau de Cologne: The classic Kölnishwasser is based around an elaborate medley of hesperidic notes often with orange blossom, but rarely with much in the heart or base. The volatility of the structure makes them the most uplifting of all fragrant products and the most fleeting. They are generally made from 2-4% ‘jus’.
Eau Fraîche took its name from Dior’s Eau Fraîche created by Roudnitska. They are similar to Eau de Cologne but have better tenacity. The discovery of ‘Hedione’ really allowed this area of perfumery to flourish and gave rise to nearly all the creations bearing the name ‘Eau..’. They have a structure more akin to Eau de Toilette than Eau de Cologne as they have a heart and base notes and are generally composed of 3-7% ‘jus’.
TOP TIP: The best place to wear fragrance is wherever blood is closest to the surface of the skin, such as the inside of the wrists and the inside bends of the elbow, so that as you move your arms past your face, you can easily smell the scent. It is also good to apply it to the dip of the collar bone, directly under the ear lobes; the beauty of applying it here is that as you move your head your nose is directly over the scent – and anyone whispering sweet nothings in your ear is right over the ‘hot-spot’, so who knows what it could lead to! Never apply fragrance behind the ears as we have so many sebaceous glands there that the alkalinity of the sweat can ‘turn’ the odour. It is also good to apply it behind the knees and the ankles when you know you are going to be seated such as for cocktails or dinner, as heat rises and will carry the scent with it.